Posts Tagged ‘photographer’

Take More Benefit with Monopod

Monopods are not a substitute but rather a complement to tripods.

Monopods allow photographers, used properly, even with medium telephoto lenses, blur-free images down to 1/30sec, even limited to record 1/15sek. (Assuming an appropriately motionless motive …) Excellent monopod can be used in conjunction with long, heavy telephoto lenses. They liberate the photographer from the weight can not be underestimated, thereby enabling images with shutter speeds that would certainly shake without a tripod and let the photographer the flexibility to be able to react to unforeseen situations. Not for nothing are monopods to the “must have” equipment for sports and wildlife photographers.

Monopods connect directly to a camera or a telephoto lens with a tripod mount is less than optimal. Considerably easier it is to better combine a monopod with a small ball or head, with long lenses with tripod collar, a head tilt as the 234 or Manfotto Manfrotto 234 RC (with quick-change adapter). A cheap, robust, compact and very sturdy (even with heavy equipment as a 2.8 / 300mm) monopod is eg. Manfrotto Neotec Monopod or for futher information, you can searching manfrotto monopod review by google.

The Monopods are (generally speaking) in two versions:
Either the leg segments with a lever or a screw (eg Manfrotto) or by “coupling nuts” (eg Monostat, Gitzo) clamped.
Both have advantages and disadvantages.
By a lever or screw clamping the leg segments, the leg extension can be fast, even-handed, adjustable (eg when the camera high to swing a landscape or to sit / kneel), the above screw the monopod to make somewhat cumbersome during transport.
Monopods with “nuts” are much more compact, but can not extract the easy and quick to adjust.
Monopod as a stabilizer
Monopods can be used not even sold. In this case, a (not too light and rigid as possible) without the ball or monopod tilt head screwed directly to camera or lens and extended to a medium length shot, is freehand.
The effect is to stabilize the camera by increased torque on two of three axes, only the vertical axis (which runs through the tripod) retains its normal torque. This stabilization is similar in effect to stabilize the “horizontal panning”, which can also be selected during image stabilizers: While turning the camera to the accompaniment of the motif is slightly reduced, the tipping vertical and shake significantly. This gives an inexpensive and yet effective image stabilizer.

10 Tips for Photo Competitions

A great morale booster is to win or even place in a highly regarded competition. Many professional photographers today have competitions to thank for getting them started on the road to a successful career.

Entering and winning photographic competitions can be a highly lucrative business if you take it seriously. Every year photography magazines alone give away many thousands of pounds/dollars worth of prizes. If you add that to the prizes offered by other magazines and organizations the figure is well into six figures, and someone has to win.

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Here are ten secrets to success:

  1. Read the rules! There is no point putting lots of effort into shooting an entry if it doesn’t fit the brief.
  2. Come up with something original, so it stands out, and only enter your best work.
  3. You may ignore your first ideas, though, because they’re probably too obvious, and wait until you feel you have something really original.
  4. Only enter competitions that appeal to you, so you have a passion for the subject.
  5. Shoot pictures specifically for a competition and start working on ideas as far in advance as possible.
  6. Use impact. Here are a few simple forms of impact that work well at catching the eye — colour, shape, expression and humour.
  7. Your images should be well exposed, composed and in focus.
  8. Be original. Try to find something that no-one else would think of submitting.
  9. Keep going. With some of the photography magazines you can enter competitions that are spread over several months, so if you flop in one category you have the chance to catch up in subsequent months and still clinch the overall prize.
  10. Be diverse. You may stand a better chance of victory if you enter photo competitions run by non-photographic magazines, simply because the standard of entry tends to be lower. So always keep an eye out for them.

Rules To Watch Out For!

Most competitions are honourable. That is they seek to improve the standard of photography by giving prizes and/or recognition to photographers. For that reason, rules often contain a clause regarding the use of the winning photographs, such as displaying the winning pictures without further payment to the photographer. Please note the part that says winning pictures. Winning photographers are usually awarded a material prize as payment-in-kind for the use of the picture in a limited fashion. This should not affect © copyright which should always remain with the photographer.

Avoid competitions where you may lose copyright of your images. Fortunately these are few and far between but mistakes have been made in the past. The use of pictures submitted to competitions can lead to exploitation of photographers by some organisers. This is because all too often competitions may have rules that include phrases like “…we reserve the right to use ALL images submitted…” If an image isn’t good enough to win a prize but is good enough to be used to promote the competition or any other use by the competition organisers then the photographer should be paid for use of the image! This may only be a token amount but it should be paid and copyright of the image acknowledged to the photographer.

Enter some competitions and you stand a good chance of making a name for yourself and winning some great prizes. Good luck! , to easy payment through payday loan

The Best Photo Tip I Ever Got

A world class photographer and college professor once said to me:

“Bad (or lackluster) photos are caused from laziness. Unfortunately, too many photographers, amateurs to professionals, will approach a photo assignment with a pre-conceived notion of attack – mostly from ‘history of style’ and wanting to play it safe. Rarely, will the photographer step back, put down the camera and size up the assignment before proceeding. Instead, many of us will execute the photo from the angle we initially approached the subject, never thinking to study the subject and its environment first.

“Look at it like this,” he continued. “The subject you wish to photograph is the nucleus of an atom. You, the photographer, are the electron spinning around the subject until you find just the right angle and distance. Not until then will you have successfully evaluated every aspect of that subject and its possibilities.” He added, “Just the slightest move to the right or left, up or down has the potential to make or break the photo. Don’t be in such a hurry to finish and leave.”

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That observation affected how I look at photography more than any other instructor, class, course, seminar or guest speaker, before or since. In fact, long ago, I based my “photographic vision” on this wonderful tip. But what’s more important; that professor suffered from the crippling effects of adult polio. And even with that affliction (and in his 60s), he still employed the “atom” philosophy with all the vigor of an athlete.